tanger THE SELLER, tanger THE MYSTERIOUS
Tangier, white city which, perched on a hillock, monitors all over Europe and Africa, the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. City of all exchanges, polycultural, first port of Africa, gateway to a world of exoticism for generations of painters and writers in search of inspiration
We had discovered Tangier mysterious and melancholy in the film Only lovers left alive, and then admired it, magical and haunting, in photographs. Finally, after many years dreaming of her, here we are at her door
We choose to stay in the heart of the medina to better lose ourselves in the timeless atmosphere of its streets. We lose ... it is the case to say it. Every time we go out, we get tangled up with the brushes
Organizing our own "loss" in Tangier is double-edged. We go from the most creaky alley to the most croquignolette. Some are really adorable, walls covered with blue, cobblestones dotted with cats languorous
The medina of Tangier, unlike those of Marrakech, Fez, or Essaouira, has never been invaded by tourists, which minimizes the number of carpet shops, slippers and other odds and ends "just for the pleasure of the eyes
The medina of Tangier, unlike those of Marrakech, Fez, or Essaouira, has never been invaded by tourists, which minimizes the number of carpet shops, slippers and other odds and ends "just for the pleasure of the eyes
Instead, locals flocking down the alleyways, grocery stores, hairdressers, a market full of olives, rolls and mandarins. Sorry, tangerines, the variety that takes its name from the city
The most photogenic part of the Medina, with its regularly painted walls and impeccable cobblestones, is the fortified kasbah, the highest point on the hill
To the question of the incredible number of cats in the streets of Morocco, we found two answers. One is down to earth, they hunt rats and mice. The other is spiritual, the prophet Muhammad possessed a cat and loved him very much. The two reasons must mix, sprinkled with a little Oh as they are cute
It is an animal that Moroccans adulate more: the Laughing Cow! We are serious, little cheese triangles are incredibly popular here. Advertisements on TV, in the street, on the grocery store fronts, at breakfast, spread over a msemen crêpe, in a sandwich, on a supermarket shelf ... everywhere
But let's go back to our sheep. On the left of the Kasbah, a balcony offers a Mediterranean view that leaves contemplative
If, on the contrary, we descend from the Kasbah on the right, we end up in the beautiful street of Italy, a slightly wider artery that contrasts with the rest of the medina. In winter, the orange trees that surround it crumble under the weight of their fruits
At the bottom of the Italian street, here we are on the Grand Socco square, derived from the word souk in Spanish. The souk in question is no longer at the heart of the place, he took refuge in a covered walkway
The Grand Socco Square is also surrounded by a beautiful mosque and the Cinémathèque de Tangier, which paints meticulously chosen films while serving coffee on the terrace
Since there is a Grand Socco, there is bound to be a Petit Socco. He no longer houses a souk, but instead, four or five cafes that encroach on the street
For breakfast, a slogan on the wall of one of them convinces us: "Always the service is fast and fresh". We confirm. As soon as the order is placed, the waiter runs to the local bakery and brings us pancakes baghrir (a thousand holes) still hot, which he sprays with honey and amlou. Formidable
Small advice for travelers in Morocco: take the time to ask people if they are well. Whether to traders, taxis, passersby who tell you your way, the police who control you ... everyone! It took us several visits in the country to understand that. And do not go to another subject in a flash, no, rejoice in the answer. You immediately gain ten points of sympathy
On another slope of the hill, we enter a neighborhood with a much more European look. The old orange-and-pink buildings of three or four stories are a clear reminder of Spain. It is not the decrepit facade of the Gran Teatro Cervantes that will contradict us, nor the restaurants that serve paella
Our steps lead us finally to the great seafront promenade. The district is modern and flashy, it has absolutely nothing to do with the tortuous Medina, or even with the "Spanish" district. A long row of clubs and lounge bars await the beautiful days and especially the beautiful summer nights to restart their sonos
Swimmers also wait for sunny days. In the middle of February, we are more inclined to shelter from the wind than to put on a jersey. We only cross dromedaries, and their masters course, who run right on us to propose a ride on the bump. No thanks, we have better in mind
Perdicaris Park with ocean view
To the west of Tangier, the Mediterranean-Atlantic coast (here is where the sea meets the ocean) is considered beautiful and wild. We hesitate to go to the caves of Hercules but, without a car, we fall back on the Park Perdicaris accessible by bus. Well we take it. We land in a vast pine forest overlooking the azure sea
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