RABAT AND CASABLANCA: ONE ENCHANES US, THE OTHER NOT
We leave behind the sweet Tangier and glide along the Atlantic to join Rabat, political capital of the kingdom, then Casablanca its economic counterpart. These are two Moroccan cities with few tourists, you know, those annoying people who are only good at creating traffic jams in the pedestrian streets
Uh ... what were we saying already? Ah yes. We reach Rabat via the new TGV line inaugurated three months earlier, the first African high-speed train, please. We drive to the unexpected pace of 320km / h through the green hills of northern Morocco and its fields of .... of ... .. damn, the scenery scrolls too fast
Rabat, a surprisingly charming capital
While Rabat is a large and modern city, certainly it is the capital, certainly most travelers do not include it in their Moroccan itinerary, but it does not lack interest
We begin our discovery by crossing the thick wall of the medina and letting ourselves be carried by the chance of our steps. Quickly, we come across an animated part, the long and narrow street Souika (as souk?), Brimming with goods
Here, and despite the name of the city, no beater seeks to attract the tourist, everything is for the locals, from the pan to the TV through the artichoke, Louis Vuitton bag or fried fish served to all street corners
Turning left on the rue des Consuls, just before reaching the sea, we come across the souk of crafts that attracts far fewer customers. Vendors sit up a little on their chairs at our approach, the most enterprising offer us without much believe to take a look at their shop. No thanks, that's nice. Another time maybe ? Uh ... yes, maybe
It is not the most beautiful medina of Morocco, many alleys are decrepit, some hands come out thanks to the talents of painters and gardeners of the inhabitants. Imagine that the labyrinthine aspect, which made us goat in other Medinas of the country, would almost miss us here where the streets are drawn at the square
For lunch, a riad well hidden welcomes us in his pretty courtyard. Obviously, the proposed dishes turn as usual around tajine and couscous
but we make an important discovery, even capital: the tfaya. What is it ? This is a small sauce made from caramelized onions, raisins and cinnamon that some restaurants offer as an accompaniment to couscous. Be careful, you should not have too heavy hand because it is very sweet, but then the eyes roll alone in their orbits with each bite
We put our eyes in front of the holes, leave the medina and cross two hundred meters further the door of the kasbah Oudayas. Indeed, Rabat offers us two fortified neighborhoods for the price of one, to believe that there were attacks of invaders every four mornings
We enter the kasbah via the beautiful Andalusian Gardens which, it was to be expected, remind us of those of Granada or Seville
Then, through a small door, we reach the Café Maure, perched on the ramparts, which serves mint tea and pastries. By pushing us to the bottom right of the cafe, in what looks like a passage of service, we find the most beautiful tables overlooking the ramparts
We cross another door to access the alleys of the Kasbah and - VLAN! - we take a big visual slap. Everything is adorable. Each angle of view could be a painting. A two-color painting, the painter had to have a reduction on the tubes of white and blue colors
We imagine that the places are a little more assaulted in the high season, but one day of the week in winter, we meet there only toms who sleep and piafs who come and whistle
At the very end of the kasbah, blue and white change color. We reach a gazebo that offers a view of the ocean and its raging waves. Surfers, in their winter suits, do not miss one
On the right, on the other side of the Bouregreg river, a city is looking at us. It is Salé, the twin sister of Rabat. Too bad that new modern buildings are being aligned just farther, because they already spoil the panorama
Along the river stretch the quays. It is here that photographers will find the best point of view on the kasbah of Rabat
Boats offer the crossing to Salé. We remain side Rabat, among the fishermen who are busy on their nets
Who are busy ... very very hard
Finally, a quarter of an hour walk leads us to the tower Hassan, aka the half-minaret. In the twelfth century, the construction of a huge mosque was started and then left in plan. Remain this strange piece and a string of columns that should have supported a roof.
Just behind is the mausoleum of Mohammed V, grandfather of the current king, guarded by eight guards in funny uniforms. What is the most difficult: to keep his seriousness in a similar dress or to be taken in selfie all day by the visitors
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